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To do this, use the outer jacket removal notch on the multi-purpose fiber stripping tool.
Next, twist the Kevlar into a tight pigtail, and mark and cut it 7mm from the stripped end of the jacket, using a Kevlar cutter (shears).
Make a mark on the fiber buffer 16mm from the jacket end. To strip the fiber buffer and coating, use the smallest notch on the stripping tool, making sure it is completely free of dirt and debris before stripping the fiber.
To avoid breaking the fiber, remove the buffer and coating in two or three sections, with the final stripping operation being from the 16mm mark.
Replace the plunger, tip the syringe up and remove the cap from the needle, place a cloth over the tip of the needle to avoid spillage, then push the plunge up to expel the air trapped in the syringe body.
Insert the needle into the rear of the ferrule, and gently push on the plunger until a small bead of adhesive can be seen on the ferrule tip.
Be careful not to allow any compound to run between the inner and outer sleeves of the rear of the connector as this may cause the ferrule to jam during operation.
Spray the bare fiber with a short burst of the primer, it is advisable to place a cloth behind the fiber when spraying and to follow all the safety precaution as printed on the can.
Push the fiber into the rear of the ferrule all the way until the buffer reaches the back of the connector, this should be done quickly and smoothly, to avoid the adhesive setting before the fiber is all the way home.
Hold the fiber in position for at least 30 seconds to allow the compound to cure.
Placing one of the beveled edges of the scribe tool flat against the ferrule tip, carefully score the fiber close the point where it emerges from the ferrule. Don’t attempt to cut the fiber off at this stage as this may result in the glass cracking down inside the ferrule.
Using the straight pull, remove the excess fiber and deposit it safely in a suitable sharps container.
Slide the crimping collar back up the fiber and over the Kevlar so it is sit against the shoulder of the connector housing.
Position the crimp tool over the large end of the crimping collar, using the center 0.190 inch hole in the crimp die.
Close the crimp tool completely until the racket is defeated and the tool can be released. Repeat the process over the small end of the crimping collar, using the 0.137 inch round hole in the crimp die.
Slide the boot back up the cable and over the entire crimping collar.
Take a sheet of the 12um polishing film, and gently rub it against the ferrule tip in a circular motion, this air polish rounds up the broken fiber stub so it doesn’t shatter during the rest of the polishing process.
Place a single drop of distilled-ion water onto the surface of the polishing pad, this will help hold the 3um polishing film in place, ready for the next stage.
Add another drop of distilled-ion water onto the polishing paper. Clean the face of the SC connector polishing puck using a lint-free wipe moistened with isopropal alcohol.
Fit the connector ferrule into the hole of the SC polishing puck, then hold the assembly against the polishing film, without exerting excess pressure, start polishing the ferrule tip using a figure-8 motion.
Continue for 20 to 30 rotations.
Remove the ferrule from the polishing puck, and clean the residual from the ferrule tip and the face of the puck using lint-free wipes moistened with isopropyl alcohol.
But if the fiber is chipped or cracked, there is no point continuing, the connector should be cut off and a new one fitted.
Put the connector back into the polishing puck and process using the 1um polishing film.
ST and LC connectors are terminated in the same manner using appropriate polishing puck.